"I heard a long time ago about this training in Nepal. As a climbing instructor and trek leader, I have done several courses within French associations (CAF - FFME) and I wanted to share my knowledge and my experience as well. That's why I went there, to the training center of Kakani in the middle of the rice fields to the north of Kathmandu. I am the sixth trainer who participates in this project initiated by Patrick Magnier, a guide and a Petzl employee who is responsible for the organization of field tests. "

In Nepal, trek guides often begin as a porter, they are paid the equivalent of € 4 per day. Then they evolve according to their ability to cook, and assist the guides. They hope to become a guide, without necessarily having received a specific training but it’s quite difficult. For trekking agencies, the hiring of trained guides can offer a guarantee of security to customers. The award of a recognized qualification allows them to find work and to be paid more, around € 15 per day (minimum wage is € 62 a month in Nepal).

Some have climbed mount Everest ... but have yet to discover the compass!

This training is a "common mountain core", accessible to all, no prerequisites, except English. The program starts in Kathmandu with three days of theory on first aid, geography, history, culture and religion, taught by Nepali speakers. Then, the training takes place at the centre of Kakani. The acquisition of basic skills such as orientation, mapping and group leadership is supplemented by more specific techniques of rope to secure difficult passages: crossing a river, steep slopes or exposed passages, etc.

In the end, it aims to give Nepali students a level equivalent to a walkingleader in the French Alpine Club. This base allows them to work for recognized agencies, and further training courses in the NMA (advanced course or competition for aspiring guide bravest). Our 16 trainees had the ideal profile, because all of them could access the curriculum.

The Petzl Foundation has continued support with the condition that NMA training meets the standards of the UIAA (Union International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation). 

Signing of the agreement 

"Steve Long, English mountain guide and head of training for the UIAA, was with me to advise officials in applying this standard, which was accepted by the NMA. Two Nepali instructors were there to manage the progress of the course. Steve was also well supported in developing the program. The students learned a lot. They also realized that becoming a coach or guide was long learning, but worth the effort to have a recognized qualification in Nepal . Personally, I feel I have done something useful, they have achieved a number of key skills to manage a group safely. We live in very different worlds but the desire to learn, to share, and to pass a knowledge to them move us closer together.

Training Centre Kakani 

The conditions were difficult, since the off-season training takes place during the monsoon periods, when the trek guides are available. The two weeks were intense, and not always comfortable: no shower in the rainy season, surrounded by leeches ... I prepared English courses and offered exercises and practical scenarios. I am pleased to have participated in this project, but I will be more satisfied when the project is fully completed."

The next course will be led by Patrick Magnier in February 2012, Nepalese future teachers will be selected, and they'll have to train other students in return ... If all goes well, the validation of the training provided by Nepalese instructors will be made in the summer by an expert from the UIAA. The objective is to sustain training with international certification by passing the baton to the Nepalese.
 

Interview by Stephane Lozac'hmeur

See the presentation and the film in 2008 for the project